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Perfect for high fliers: Scientists believe the vodka and tomato juice cocktail tastes even better in the air than on the ground

When the air hostess asks if you fancy a drink, try a Bloody Mary.

Scientists believe the vodka and tomato juice cocktail tastes even better in the air than on the ground.

The dash of Worcestershire sauce tickles nerve endings in the nose to enhance the smell, on which much of our sense of taste is based.

The theory comes from Barry Smith, founder of the Centre for the Study of the Senses at the University of London.

He says the incessant droning noise in the cabin can affect our ability to taste flavours. Tomato juice, he argues, is one of the few that can still be savoured. 

Writing in the journal Flavour  he says: 'The mystery is why people drink tomato juice and Bloody Marys on planes and not in other situations.

'Air stewards are aware of this and say they have to hide the tomato juice because passengers drink cartons of it.

'My suggestion is that tomatoes are full of umami – a flavour enhancer.'

Umami, 'the fifth taste', is the meaty, savoury flavour of mushrooms, parmesan cheese and anchovies, as well as the additive MSG.

Tomatoes are also rich in umami and their core, which we normally throw away but is pulped when making tomato juice, is particularly high in it.

Other studies show we find it harder to perceive sweetness and saltiness when there is loud background noise.

The tastiest of all? A Singapore Airlines stewardess straightens a bed on a jet - with a bottle of champagne

If umami is the key to making food taste good in the air, the lesson could be transferred to the ground.

Professor Smith adds: 'One might also want to recommend a umami-rich menu – that is foods such as parmesan cheese, tomatoes and mushrooms – to all those vocal restaurant critics out there who have been complaining that the background noise in restaurants is simply so loud that they can no longer taste or enjoy their food.'

Those who don't like tomato juice in any situation do have another option when flying.

The professor believes that champagne's properties may make it the tastiest drink of all in the air.